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 | Equipment |
| The Grip |
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Equipment
The racquetball racquet is absolutely the most important piece of equipment because it's the primary link between you and the ball. Racquet technology has advanced significantly in the last 25 years and with a little effort and advice from your local Pro, you can find the right racquet that will complement your style of game. Once you move up to the intermediate and advanced levels of play, the "right" racquet can be a catalyst towards helping you improve your game.
Of course, I am partial to Ektelon racquets, since I am a Team Ektelon player and have been playing with Ektelon racquets for over 20 years. There are a few key attributes of a racquet that you should be aware of during the evaluation phase. First is control, a byproduct of a racquet determining how low the "ball" remains on the strings. The quality and gauge of strings also affects the amount of "control" exhibited by a racquet. A racquet flexes during impact with the ball and because control is enhanced at the sacrifice of some power, you can place shots more effectively.
A racquet will generate more power if it effectively transfers the force of your stroke into the ball and makes it move faster. Typically, power is related to a racquet's stiffness. The stiffer the racket, the better it transfers your swinging force to the ball. Another factor which will affect the amount power which can be generated is string gauge and how tight your racquet is strung. A racquet strung at a lower poundage will generate more power, while sacrificing some control. Generally speaking, it amounts to player preference and style as to what gauge of string and how tightly to string a racquet. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations and stay within those guidelines.
Choosing the right racquet can make a tremendous difference to your racquetball game. However, to many players (both expert and
beginner) this can be a daunting task. There are many racquets from which to choose, all with significant differences. How do you sort
through all the features and benefits to find the racquet that's just perfect for you?
Follow these simple steps...
#1 Seek professional advice. A certified teaching professional can tell you what your game needs in improvement, help analyze your
playing style and suggest some general types of racquets. Check with your
local Club Pro, usually he or she will have some demo racquets that you can try
before you buy.
#2 Identify your playing style. This is essential to selecting a racquet. Once you define your playing style you can then narrow
your selection to the racquets that give you the best performance characteristics to enhance your game. Start by asking yourself these
questions:
Am I a player who demands all-out power? If so, you'll require a larger headsize at, or exceeding, 98 square
inches; a quadriform headshape to maximize the main string length; Power Web Technology provides still longer and more
consistent main string length; open string patterns; conventional weighting of 225-245 grams and a stiffer frame construction. These are all very
specific characteristics of power racquets.
Do I rely more on strategy and precise shot execution, but don't want to sacrifice power?
You should seek a slightly smaller headsize (98-94 square inches) with a teardrop
headshape. This will give you a lighter weight racquet
for maximum maneuverability and control.
Do I play actively, but in spurts, and want the latest technology to add pop to my shots? Or, do I play for fun and exercise and want a
competitive edge? If you fall into either of these categories, look primarily for easy
hitting racquets with an enlarged hitting zone for effortless power.
In addition to identifying your playing style, think about how often you play (or would like to play) and your
proficiency and ability. All this will help you when it comes time to select racquets to demo.
#3 Experiment with demo racquets. Most better retail outlets and club facilities have a complete selection of demo racquets which you
can rent or borrow. Often, your rental fee can be applied to a future racquet purchase. Don't be afraid to experiment with many of the
racquets that fall into your playing style category. You'll find that there are also differences between headshape and headsize to
consider.
#4 Select the correct headsize. As we pointed out in step 2, a larger headsize (98-112 square inches) will generate more power in
a racquet. However, if the racquet is not weighted and balanced correctly, you may have a difficult time maneuvering it. If you are
considering a larger headsize racquet, make sure you play with a few different
headsizes. Itís the only way to see what a difference
headsize can make on your performance.
#5 Select the correct headshape. Depending upon your playing style, you may have some choices of
headshape. The quadriform
shape generally produces more power with its elongated main strings and longer string bed. In the teardrop design, the main strings are
shorter which causes the string bed to have slightly less power potential. However, the teardrop shape features a more rounded
head area and wider / expanded hitting zone (sweet spot) making it more forgiving on off-center hits.
#6 Select your grip size. The more advanced and expensive racquets sometimes have more than one grip size available. Racquets may be
offered in supper small (3-11/16"), extra small (3-15/16") or a flared grip option. Ask to see other sizes so you know which one feels the
best for you. Grab the racquet near the base of the handle like you're shaking hands with it. Now wrap your fingers around the
handle so that your middle finger almost touches the palm of your hand while gripping the racquet.
Remember, the smaller the grip, the more wrist snap you can get to increase your power potential!
Selecting a good pair of shoes is also very important. A good racquetball shoe is light, but strong enough to withstand more twisting and turning than a normal running shoe. A squash shoe should also have a soft "gum" sole, allowing for better traction and non-marring of the floor surface. Dark sole shoes are not allowed by all court clubs.
Eyeguards are encouraged for obvious safety reasons. Invest in a good pair of protective eyeguards that do not restrict your vision and have a snug fit.
There are two variations of the "trigger finger grip" for racquetball, depending on whether you are hitting a forehand or backhand shot. For a forehand, hold the racquet in the palm of your hands, similar to a handshake, with the "V" between your thumb and forefinger on top of the racquet handle, when the racquet face is is square to to the front wall and the bottom of the racquet frame is parallel to the floor. The "butt" of the racquet grip should rest in the heel of the hand.
The backhand grip requires rotating your forehand "trigger finger grip" approximately 1/4 turn to the left. Make sure your thumb is wrapped around the middle finger.
To get into the proper court position for an offensive return, watch the ball at all times, then move as your opponent swings. Remember, you want to control center court and keep your opponent behind you in a defensive position. The term "center court" is somewhat of a misnomer because it doesn't really mean the exact center of the court. Instead, the "playing" center is about five feet behind the short line and equidistant from the side walls.
Dominating center court will allow you to capitalize on every mistake your opponent makes. At center court you have maximum scoring options from effective shots and you can also cover your opponent's best shots easier. However, there are times when you must relinquish center court. The rules state that you must always give up your position to give your opponent a fair chance to hit the ball.
Two of the best shots for enabling you to take control of center court are the ceiling ball and the pass or down the line shot. Both of these defensive shots will require your opponent to move to back court to return the ball, thus allowing you to move to center court.
When selecting your shots, if the ball is chest high or higher, go to your ceiling shot.
If the ball is chest to thigh high, use a passing shot. Lower, go for your kill shot.
If your opponent is behind you, pinch (hit the frontwall, then sidewall) to the same side as your opponent. If your opponent is
even with you, use a passing shot. If your opponent is in front of you, use a passing or ceiling shot.
When in doubt, go with a down the line shot as close to the side wall as possible. This should force a weak or defensive return.
Good angles are more important than hitting the ball low. By using angles and hitting higher on the front wall, you eliminate skip balls or
other unforced errors.
Kill shots aren't the only offensive returns. A good passing shot that bounces twice before hitting the back wall will win a rally and is less
likely to skip.
Do not force your kill shots. Use your passing shots to get yourself in better position to hit kill shots.
When hitting a passing shot, don't try to hit the ball low on the front wall. Instead, use a hitting range of 6" - 24" off the floor. Then, if
your shot is low, it will still be effective.
Stroke Mechanics
Consistent ball drop and good stroke mechanics are the keys to a great serve.
Make sure to use your hips and shoulder rotation along with wrist snap to generate power in your serve.
To return serve, your racquet should be centered in front of your body in a backhand grip, as most serves are to the backhand side.
When hitting the ball, your body should be facing a side wall, not the front
wall.
For the forehand, your elbow should be aligned with the top of the shoulder with your forearm being parallel to the floor. Your elbow joint should be at a 90 degree angle. Your feet should be parallel to the forehand side wall.
Lead with your elbow, away from your body. There should be at least 8-12 inches between your elbow and your body. Extend outward and contact the ball at the furthermost extension point. At contact the ball should be just past the innerfront thigh, the racquet face square to the front wall and the bottom of the racquet frame parallel to the floor. The step into the ball should be with the lead foot and should be straight, occurring the same time as the stroke.
The wrist should snap at contact and continue to follow through towards the front wall. The racquet should stay level and continue to circle around the body. It is important to follow through so that by the end of your stroke, your hips should be facing the front wall and your racquet head should have turned over and be facing the floor. The primary power force comes from elbow preparation with the hip and leg drive becoming secondary power sources.
For the backhand, your arm should reach towards the backwall (not behind the head) leaving the arm slightly bent, in the shape of a bow. The elbow should be away from the body and pointed towards the side wall. Make sure you release the racquet with your free hand. Your weight should be shifted to your back foot.
Your shoulders and hips should be facing the side wall, the elbow should lead transferring your weight from your back foot to your front foot. Step forward setting your lead foot at a 45 degree angle, allowing your hips to open up more naturally. Point of contact should be off the front big toe, just as the weight has transferred forward. The racquet head should once again be extended outward, with the face square to the front wall and the frame parallel to the floor.
At contact, your wrist should naturally snap. The stroke should
continue towards the front wall, staying on a level plane. Make sure your
elbow stays level, lower than the shoulder.
Serving
On your drive serves, it is better to be short on your first attempt, as this can be adjusted by ball drop or aim point on the front wall.
Keep your drive serves from hitting the side wall. You want to angle your serve to the corners to force your opponent to a deeper position
in the back of the court.
Try to keep the service motion the same on all your serves. This will create deception and keep your opponent guessing. When serving, the ideal first bounce range is
approximately 6" in front of the short line to 2' past the short line. This range will help
keep your serves from coming off the back wall and being easy set-ups for your opponent.
Vary your serves and speeds to keep your opponent off balance and to force them to stay in center court to receive your serves.
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2004 Wallbanger Sports - All Rights Reserved
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